What is Urea (Carbamide)?
Urea (INCI: Urea, also called carbamide) is a naturally occurring component of the skin's own moisturizing factor (NMF). At low concentrations (3-10%) it acts as a humectant that draws water into the stratum corneum; at higher concentrations (10-40%) it adds a gentle keratolytic effect that softens and smooths thickened, rough skin. It is the classic active for foot creams, hand creams and body lotions for dry, cracked skin.
How It Works
Urea hydrates by absorbing water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum, improving its water-binding capacity. At higher concentrations it disrupts hydrogen bonds between corneocyte proteins, gently dissolving the intercellular matrix of thickened skin — which is why 10-20% urea is standard in foot-care products for cracked heels. It also has mild antimicrobial and barrier-supporting properties.
Market Context for Brand Owners
Urea cream is one of the highest-volume skincare searches on Amazon US at roughly 200,000 monthly searches, with the vast majority of demand concentrated in foot and heel care. It is a stable, non-seasonal, high-repeat-purchase category with strong sell-through in North America, Europe and the GCC. For private label brands, urea foot cream is one of the easiest categories to launch — low formulation risk, clear consumer need and proven retail demand.
Formulation & Manufacturing Notes
Urea is highly water-soluble and stable at pH 5.0-7.0. It works well with hyaluronic acid, allantoin, shea butter, lanolin and botanical oils in rich cream bases. Avoid high process temperatures (above 60°C for extended periods), which can degrade urea into ammonia. Typical usage: 5-10% for daily moisturizers, 10-20% for foot repair creams, up to 40% for intensive keratolytic treatments.
Regulatory Status
Urea is permitted in cosmetics in the US, EU, Korea and most export markets at typical use levels. Concentration limits vary by market for very high levels (some EU markets regulate above 20% for leave-on products). Standard COA, MSDS and microbial certification provided. CPSR support available for EU.
